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Cheese from Cheshire and neighbouring counties, England
Cheshire
In the 1896 account, evening and morning milk are renneted at 86–88 °F and the curd is scalded only gently, to 92–94 °F. The drained curd is turned and broken, then ground finer than Cheddar curd, salted and kept warm in a cheese oven before light pressing. This gives Cheshire its loose, crumbly body.
Amounts from a sourceAmounts from the 1896 Long and Benson description of a medium-ripening Cheshire. No modern make sheet, pH or microbe study was found, so every step here follows the 1896 and 1928 accounts.
Evening and morning cow milk
The cream skimmed off in the morning is heated and returned[long-benson1896]
Rennet extract1 oz per 20 gallons of milk
Or enough to give a curd ready to cut in 45–60 minutes[long-benson1896]
Sour whey
Added to ripen the milk when its acidity is too low[long-benson1896]
Annatto colouring
Added ten minutes before the rennet (1896); the 1928 bulletin names annatto as the colouring[long-benson1896][usda1928]
historically sour whey from the previous day's make
Total time across the recorded steps: 3.1 months – 10 months
Start
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What changes:Evening and morning milk are mixed in the vat and left to ripen
Step 1 of 8
Ripen the mixed milk
Time
Not documented
Temperature
20 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Output: ripened milk.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
the milk sours; sour whey from yesterday's make is added if it is not ripe enough
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
In the 1896 account, evening and morning milk are renneted at 86–88 °F and the curd is scalded only gently, to 92–94 °F. The drained curd is turned and broken, then ground finer than Cheddar curd, salted and kept warm in a cheese oven before light pressing. This gives Cheshire its loose, crumbly body. Made in 8 steps over 3.1 months – 10 months. The longest step, cure, takes 3–10 months (Long J 1896) and runs at 16–18 °C (Long J 1896).
Cheshire curd is scalded much less than Cheddar curd and is not stacked as cheddared slabs. It is broken, ground finer and kept warm in a cheese oven, which gives a crumbly, open body instead of Cheddar's close texture.
Milk
Cow milk; evening and morning milk mixed
Ripening
About 3 months for medium-ripening cheese in 1896; quick-ripening cheeses were also made
Size
14 to 16 inches across and 50 to 70 pounds in 1928
Coloured CheshireColoured with annatto (1928); the 1896 chapter says makers still coloured most cheeses.
White CheshireUncoloured; recommended in 1896 because colouring could discolour the cheese.
Cheshire-StiltonDescribed in 1928 as a combination of the Cheshire and Stilton varieties.
Safety
The 1896 account gives no pH or safety limits, and it describes no heat treatment of the milk beyond warming the skimmed cream to 95 °F. ANSES advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses, so that advice applies to any Cheshire made from raw milk.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli, the main hazards ANSES names for raw-milk cheeses (relevant to any Cheshire made from raw milk).
The 1896 chapter says Cheshire cheese was made almost only in Cheshire and the counties that border it, and that quick-ripening Cheshire was then widely made. A 1928 USDA bulletin calls Cheshire one of the oldest English varieties.