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Alcoholic drinks from Coastal Brazil

Cauim (Tupinambá chewed manioc or maize beer)cauim

Cauim is the chewed root or maize beer of the Tupinambá, described by Jean de Léry in 1578. Women boiled sliced manioc roots, chewed them so that saliva would turn the starch to sugar, boiled the mass again and poured it unstrained into great earthen jars to ferment. It was thick, cloudy and sour like soured milk, and was drunk warm at feasts that could last three days.

Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedNo fixed amounts. Léry saw more than thirty great jars, each said to hold more than sixty Paris pints, lined up for one feast.
Manioc (aipim and maniot) roots, or maizeSliced as thin as turnips for the pot[lery1578]
Water[lery1578]
Saliva of the women who chew the rootsIts amylase turns cooked starch into sugar[lery1578][chacon2021]
Starterother: salivary amylase from chewing; microbes from the jars and the surroundings
Start
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What changes: Thin slices of manioc root boil in water until soft

Step 1 of 5
Slice and boil the roots
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts

Boiled until tender, then taken off the fire and left to cool a little. Output: soft, cooked root slices.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Cauim is the chewed root or maize beer of the Tupinambá, described by Jean de Léry in 1578. Women boiled sliced manioc roots, chewed them so that saliva would turn the starch to sugar, boiled the mass again and poured it unstrained into great earthen jars to ferment. It was thick, cloudy and sour like soured milk, and was drunk warm at feasts that could last three days. Lactobacillus pentosus and L. plantarum, dominant throughout modern Tapirapé cassava cauim and Lactobacillus fermentum, L. paracasei and L. brevis, with yeasts Pichia guilliermondii, Kluyveromyces lactis, Candida and Saccharomyces cerevisiae do most of the fermenting.

What makes this one different

Cauim relies on chewing instead of a mould starter or malt. The roots are boiled twice and never strained, so the beer is thick, and it was drunk warm rather than cool.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Maize cauim (ayati)Made from maize, boiled and chewed the same way.
  • Tapirapé cauim (modern)Cassava soaked in running water for 3–4 days, peeled, sun-dried, grated and cooked; the cooled puree is started with chewed sweet potato juice and fermented about 48 h in an open vessel, pH falling from 5.5 to 3.4 in one study; also made from rice, maize, peanuts, pumpkin or cotton seed, and given to small children.
  • CaxiriPurple cassava beer of the Juruna (Yudjá), drunk up to 120 h after making.

Safety

Modern cauim sours quickly, from pH 5.5 to 3.4 in one study, but Bacillus cereus was among the bacteria isolated from it. Léry describes no soak, only boiling before and after chewing. Cassava's cyanide can cause vomiting, collapse and in some cases death. FAO says simple boiling is not always reliable and bitterness is not necessarily a reliable sign of cyanide. An overview by S.K. Hahn on FAO's site recommends plain boiling only for low-cyanide varieties. The modern Tapirapé method soaks the cassava for 3–4 days first, but no study we read measures cyanide in cauim. This page records the method and is not a recipe to follow.

Hazards the sources name: Bacillus cereus, isolated from modern cassava cauim.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Jean de Léry described cauim among the Tupinambá in his 1578 book. He saw men drink for three days and nights without eating, and compared the women's chewing to French vintners treading grapes with their feet.

  1. [lery1578] Léry J. de 1578, Histoire d'un voyage faict en la terre du Brésil, chapter IX (edition of P. Gaffarel, Paris 1880)archive
  2. [almeida2007] Almeida E.G., Rachid C.C., Schwan R.F. 2007, Microbial population present in fermented beverage 'cauim' produced by Brazilian Amerindians, International Journal of Food Microbiology 120(1–2):146–151, doi:10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2007.06.020 (abstract)paper
  3. [ramos2010] Ramos C.L. et al. 2010, Determination of dynamic characteristics of microbiota in a fermented beverage produced by Brazilian Amerindians, International Journal of Food Microbiology 140(2–3):225–231, doi:10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2010.03.029 (abstract)paper
  4. [chacon2021] Chacón Mayorga G.A., Arias Palma G.B., Sandoval-Cañas G.J., Ordoñez-Araque R.H. 2021, Ancestral fermented indigenous beverages from South America made from cassava (Manihot esculenta), Food Science and Technology (Campinas) 41(suppl 1), doi:10.1590/fst.15220paper
  5. [s1] Wikipedia, Cauim (outline only)wiki
  6. [fao1990] FAO 1990, Roots, tubers, plantains and bananas in human nutrition, ch. 7, Toxic substances and antinutritional factors (cassava toxicity)gov
  7. [hahn-fao] Hahn S.K., An overview of traditional processing and utilization of cassava in Africa, FAO Corporate Document Repository (x5458e)gov