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Cheese from Italy, Campania
Raw ewe, goat or cow milk, alone or mixed, is set with kid rennet paste at 30–35 °C, broken to hazelnut size and pressed by hand into small baskets. The salted cheeses dry for weeks, are washed in pasta-cooking water and coated with olive oil, wine vinegar, mint and wild thyme. They then ripen sealed in earthenware or glass jars for 6 months or more, turned and re-coated each month.
| Raw whole ewe, goat or cow milk | One kind alone or mixed in any proportion[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] |
| Kid rennet paste | Sometimes made by the shepherds from dried kid stomachs[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] |
| Salt | Rubbed on dry[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] |
| Water from cooking pettole | Homemade pasta; washing leaves a thin starch film on the cheese[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] |
| Olive oil and wine vinegar | Mixed into the coating (concia)[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] |
| Mint and wild thyme, sometimes ground chilli | Finely chopped and pressed onto the surface[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 6 months – 12 months
What changes: Starting material: raw ewe, goat or cow milk, alone or mixed
Milk of one kind or mixed in any ratio is filtered into the cauldron. Output: raw milk.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw ewe, goat or cow milk, alone or mixed, is set with kid rennet paste at 30–35 °C, broken to hazelnut size and pressed by hand into small baskets. The salted cheeses dry for weeks, are washed in pasta-cooking water and coated with olive oil, wine vinegar, mint and wild thyme. They then ripen sealed in earthenware or glass jars for 6 months or more, turned and re-coated each month. Made in 7 steps over 6 months – 12 months. The longest step, seal in jars to ripen, takes 6–12 months (Regione Campania 2015). Mesophilic lactic acid bacteria, dominant through making and ripening; Lactiplantibacillus plantarum subsp. plantarum about 26 % of 203 isolates and Enterococci, about 30 % of 203 isolates do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–12 monthsReported[pat-conzato] | Seal in jars to ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30–35 °CReported[pat-conzato][onaf-conzato] | Set with kid rennet |
It ripens sealed in jars without air, like formaggio di fossa ripens in a pit, and is re-coated each month with oil, vinegar and herbs. In a study of two seasons, E. coli disappeared during jar ripening, probably because of the coating.
The milk is raw. In a two-season study, coagulase-positive staphylococci, Salmonella and Listeria were never found, and E. coli disappeared during jar ripening. ANSES advises pregnant women, people over 65, people with weak immunity and young children to avoid raw-milk cheeses.
Hazards the sources name: Enterobacteriaceae and Escherichia coli in the young cheese; they disappeared during jar ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Its name is dialect for "cacio conciato", a cheese given laborious care. ONAF reports a claim that the method goes back to the Samnites of the 6th–5th century BC, but no sure source supports it. Surplus fresh cheese was coated and sealed in jars to keep pests out. Slow Food helped the few remaining makers write production rules.
