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Cheese from Italy, Lazio
Raw buffalo milk is set with calf rennet at 36 °C, broken to small-hazelnut size (nocciolina) and put into baskets without pressing. The small cheeses are dry-salted and then soaked for 10 hours in the still-warm vat with the leftovers of mozzarella making. They ripen about 60 days in glass demijohns, brushed with salt water and rubbed with oil and vinegar; some are finished in wine and grape pomace, oil lees or ash.
| Raw buffalo milk | Worked within 2 hours of milking[arsial-amaseno] |
| Calf liquid rennet | [arsial-amaseno] |
| Salt | Rubbed on dry, then salt water for brushing[arsial-amaseno] |
| Olive oil and vinegar | Rubbed on every 10 days during ripening[arsial-amaseno] |
| Wine and grape pomace, oil lees (morchia) or ashoptional | Flavoured type only, a week before sale[arsial-amaseno] |
| Starter | none added (the ONAF sheet lists no addition of ferments) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.2 months
What changes: Raw buffalo milk is warmed slowly to 36 °C
Output: raw buffalo milk, used within 2 hours of milking.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw buffalo milk is set with calf rennet at 36 °C, broken to small-hazelnut size (nocciolina) and put into baskets without pressing. The small cheeses are dry-salted and then soaked for 10 hours in the still-warm vat with the leftovers of mozzarella making. They ripen about 60 days in glass demijohns, brushed with salt water and rubbed with oil and vinegar; some are finished in wine and grape pomace, oil lees or ash. Made in 8 steps over 2.2 months. The longest step, ripen in glass demijohns, takes 2 months (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…) and runs at 4–10 °C (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…).
| Main step | 2 monthsReported[arsial-amaseno] | Ripen in glass demijohns |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 4–10 °CReported[arsial-amaseno] | Ripen in glass demijohns |
| Acidity | pH 5.1–5.2Measured[papetti2013] | Ripen in glass demijohns |
A small raw buffalo cheese that soaks for 10 hours in the warm vat left from mozzarella making, then ripens in glass demijohns and is rubbed with oil every 10 days.
Made from raw buffalo milk, worked within 2 hours of milking and ripened about 60 days. In a study of Gouda and Cheddar, raw milk was deliberately contaminated with a low level of E. coli O157:H7. Counts fell during ageing, but it was still detectable by enrichment past 270 days, so 60 days of ageing alone did not eliminate it. ANSES, the French food safety agency, advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than pressed cooked cheeses such as Gruyère or Comté. The Lazio list marks it as allowed to use derogations from the standard hygiene rules for its traditional methods.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The ARSIAL sheet draws its history from the oral accounts of local dairymen, who have made use of buffalo milk for a long time. ONAF adds that the small cheese was also called the shepherd's ration, as it was part of the midday meal on the pastures, with a herring and a piece of bread.
