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Alcoholic drinks from Western Kenya, now drunk across Kenya

Busaa (Kenyan maize–millet opaque beer)busaa

Busaa is an opaque beer from western Kenya made in two ferments. Raw maize grits and water sour for two to three days, the sour mass is roasted, and then it is mixed with water and finger-millet malt and ferments again for two to four days. It is strained and drunk the same day, still fermenting, with 2–4 % alcohol.

Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks8.5 days – 14 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceProportions from Nout's flowsheet of a commercial brewer in Nairobi (8 brewing cycles followed). Household brewers work by eye; no fixed batch size is given.
Raw maize grits1 partMixed with an equal weight of cold water and left to sour[nout1980]
Cold water for souring1 part (equal weight to the grits)[nout1980]
Soured, roasted maize crumb1 part[nout1980]
Cold water1½ parts[nout1980]
Ground finger-millet malt0.1 partSteeped, sprouted, sun-dried and coarsely ground[nout1980]
Starterspontaneous; yeasts and lactic bacteria multiply in the soured maize, and the finger-millet malt, which carries many microbes, may act as an inoculum for the main fermentation, though Nout found its value as a starter limited

Total time across the recorded steps: 8.5 days – 14 days

Start
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Close-up: water moving into a grain25 °C

What changes: Water soaks into the millet grain

Step 1 of 8
Steep finger-millet grain
Time
12–24 h
Reported
Temperature
25 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Yeasts
Moulds
Lactobacilli
Lactic acid bacteria

Output: steeped millet.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Busaa is an opaque beer from western Kenya made in two ferments. Raw maize grits and water sour for two to three days, the sour mass is roasted, and then it is mixed with water and finger-millet malt and ferments again for two to four days. It is strained and drunk the same day, still fermenting, with 2–4 % alcohol. Made in 8 steps over 8.5 days – 14 days. The longest step, main fermentation, takes 2–4 days (Nout M.J.R. 1980) and runs at 25 °C (Nout M.J.R. 1980). Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lactobacillus plantarum (takes over as the main fermentation goes on), with L. brevis, L. salivarius, L. viridescens, L. casei var. rhamnosus and L. buchneri do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step2–4 daysReported[nout1980]Main fermentation
Temperature25 °CReported[nout1980]Main fermentation
AciditypH 4.9 → 3.55Measured[nout1980]Main fermentation

What makes this one different

Busaa sours raw maize first and then roasts the sour mass before the main ferment. Southern African opaque beers boil part of the mash instead, and they use sorghum malt where busaa uses finger-millet malt. The spirit chang'aa is made by adding sugar to busaa or its residues, fermenting and distilling.

Alcohol
2–4 % v/v; lactic acid 0.5–1.0 % w/v
Shelf life
Not beyond 24 hours at ambient temperature, so small batches are brewed to be sold the same day

Related ferments

Variants

  • Chekwè (Busia and Bungoma, Luhya)Freshly ground finger millet replaces the raw maize in the first ferment; 4–5 % alcohol and acidity about 0.5–0.8 % as lactic acid. Kept for special occasions.
  • Marwa (Meru)Bulrush millet only; a boiled-down malt concentrate is stored and later mixed with cooked millet paste for an overnight ferment.

Safety

Busaa keeps less than a day at room temperature; it keeps souring, and by about pH 3.5 it separates and is spoilt. The finger-millet malt carries a heavy, mixed microbial load, including Listeria and Klebsiella, from germination in jute bags and drying on the ground. Rhizopus and Mucor moulds were isolated from the malt, and none were left alive after a long fermentation. A hospital study in western Kenya linked drinking, particularly of busaa and chang'aa, to about half of the esophageal cancer burden there.

Hazards the sources name: Listeria sp. isolated from the finger-millet malt; Enterobacter cloacae and Klebsiella pneumoniae in the finger-millet malt.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Busaa comes from western Kenya, where it is part of Luhya, Luo, Kisii and Kuria culture, and migration has spread it across the country. The Native Liquor Ordinance of 1930 allowed traditional liquor to be made and drunk only by people of African, or Arabian-born-in-Kenya, descent. The Traditional Liquor Act replaced it in 1971. A first nation-wide public meeting in October 1978 urged people to drink less, and licences for traditional beer were cut from January 1979.

  1. [nout1980] Nout M.J.R. 1980, Microbiological aspects of the traditional manufacture of Busaa, a Kenyan opaque maize beer, Chem. Mikrobiol. Technol. Lebensm. 6:137–142 (reprinted as chapter 8 of Nout 1981)paper
  2. [nout1981] Nout M.J.R. 1981, Aspects of the manufacture and consumption of Kenyan traditional fermented beverages, doctoral thesis, Agricultural University Wageningen (chapter 2, Busaa, Chekwè and Marwa)archive
  3. [menya2019] Menya D., Kigen N., Oduor M. et al. 2019, Traditional and commercial alcohols and esophageal cancer risk in Kenya, International Journal of Cancer 144(3):459–469 (abstract)paper