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Cheese from Italy, Liguria
Ewe-milk ricotta from the upper valleys of Imperia is drained, packed into small lidded wooden tubs and left to sour and ferment for about a week, stirred every day. Grappa or another spirit, vinegar, olive oil and pepper or chilli go in, depending on the village. The result is a creamy, greyish, sharp spread eaten on bread.
| Ewe-milk whey | Left from pecorino making; it must be acid enough[onaf-sheet] |
| Grappa, another fermenting spirit, or vinegar | Varies by local tradition[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Olive oil | [pat-sheet] |
| Black pepper or chilli | [pat-sheet] |
| Salt (in some areas) | [pat-sheet] |
| Starter | none added |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7 days
What changes: Heat and acid make the whey proteins rise as soft white flakes
Heat and the whey's own acidity make the whey proteins flock together and rise to the surface.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Ewe-milk ricotta from the upper valleys of Imperia is drained, packed into small lidded wooden tubs and left to sour and ferment for about a week, stirred every day. Grappa or another spirit, vinegar, olive oil and pepper or chilli go in, depending on the village. The result is a creamy, greyish, sharp spread eaten on bread. Made in 4 steps over 7 days. The longest step, ferment in a cool cellar, stirred daily, takes 7 days (Regione Liguria (agriligurianet)). Lactobacilli, 33 strains of 10 species including Lactobacillus kefiri, L. paracasei, L. plantarum and L. paraplantarum, in Ricotta forte, a related southern Italian fermented ricotta does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 7 daysReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ferment in a cool cellar, stirred daily |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 70–90 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Heat the ewe whey to make ricotta |
It is not a cheese made from curd but ricotta left to ferment in wooden tubs, sharpened with spirit, vinegar and pepper. The Piedmont brus is related but often made from old cheese.
It is kept in a cool cellar or a fridge while it ferments, and the ONAF sheet classes it as a fresh cheese. CDC advises pregnant women, newborns, adults 65 or older and people with a weakened immune system to avoid unheated fresh soft cheeses such as queso blanco and requesón.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Early-19th-century Piedmontese and later Sanremo dialect dictionaries describe brus and brùsso as strong fermented pastes, the second as hard ricotta macerated with salt and pepper and stirred often. It fell out of use for about twenty years and returned with the Slow Food Ark of Taste listing for the Valle Arroscia brùzzo.
