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Vinegar from Provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Traditional balsamic vinegar is made from grape must alone, cooked in open pans over direct heat and left to ferment in barrels under the roof. Sugar-tolerant yeasts and acetic acid bacteria turn part of the sugar into alcohol and then acetic acid, and the vinegar ages for at least 12 years while it is moved between a set of wooden casks of different sizes.
| Grapes of vine varieties grown in the province | The grapes must give a must of 15° or more on the saccharometer. They come from vineyards in the province of Modena or Reggio Emilia, at most 160 quintals per hectare and at most 70 % must yield for viticulture-only holdings.[pdo-modena][pdo-reggio] |
| Cooked grape must | The only substance used from cooking to maturation, with nothing else added. Blended musts (Modena), musts with fermentation arrested (Reggio Emilia) and musts with additives are not allowed.[pdo-modena][pdo-reggio] |
| Starter | spontaneous; naturally occurring yeasts convert the sugar to ethanol, then acetic acid bacteria oxidise it |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 years
What changes: Grapes from the province are pressed for their sweet must
Output: fresh grape must.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Traditional balsamic vinegar is made from grape must alone, cooked in open pans over direct heat and left to ferment in barrels under the roof. Sugar-tolerant yeasts and acetic acid bacteria turn part of the sugar into alcohol and then acetic acid, and the vinegar ages for at least 12 years while it is moved between a set of wooden casks of different sizes. Made in 5 steps over 12 years. The longest step, age in a set of casks, decanting and topping up, takes at least 12 years (European Commission 1565). Zygosaccharomyces bailii and Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Candida stellata do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 12 yearsSet[pdo-modena][pdo-reggio] | Age in a set of casks, decanting and topping up |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | at least 80 °CSet[pdo-modena] | Cook the must in open pans over direct heat |
Most vinegars start from wine or another alcoholic liquid. Traditional balsamic starts from cooked grape must, so yeasts and acetic bacteria work side by side in a very sweet, acid liquid, and the long ageing in a set of casks of different sizes concentrates it further [giudici2009]. Aceto Balsamico di Modena (PGI) is a different product, made with different technology and raw material [giudici2009].
The finished vinegar must have total acidity of at least 4.5 g (Modena) or 5 g (Reggio Emilia) of acetic acid per 100 g [pdo-modena, pdo-reggio].
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Modena record traces "balsamic" vinegar in the ducal cellar register of 1747 and in court accounts back to at least 1508; the first written production rules are in a letter from Francesco Aggazzotti to Pio Fabriani in 1860 [pdo-modena]. The Reggio Emilia record cites the poem Vita Mathildis by the monk Donizone, written between 1112 and 1115 [pdo-reggio].
