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Alcoholic drinks from Sichuan

Nongxiang (strong-aroma) baijiu — mud-pit process浓香型白酒

Strong-aroma baijiu is a grain spirit fermented for about two months in pits lined with living mud. Each round, fresh grain and husk are mixed into old fermented grain, steamed while the old grain is distilled, cooled, given daqu and sealed back in the pit. Bacteria in the pit mud make caproic acid, which becomes the fruity ester ethyl caproate.

Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks2 months – 2.3 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceRatios from a 2020 Henan draft group standard for northern strong-aroma brewing. Each distillery sets its own ratios and changes them with the season.
Grain (sorghum, or sorghum with rice, wheat, maize and glutinous rice)1 partCrushed; soaked in water at 50–60 °C, using 30–40 % of the grain weight in water[henan2020]
Old fermented grain from the pit (mupei)4.5–5 parts[henan2020]
Medium-temperature daqu, ground25–27 % of the grain weight[henan2020]
Rice husk, steamed clean for 40 min first22–27 % of the grain weight[henan2020]
Hot water (95 °C or hotter), added after steaming30–40 % of the grain weight[henan2020]
Startermedium-temperature daqu, plus the old fermented grain and the microbes of the pit mud

Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 2.3 months

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
shapes, not to countCandidaWickerhamomycesBacillus53–56 °C

What changes: Wheat bricks heat up as yeasts and bacteria grow through them

Step 1 of 6
Make medium-temperature daqu
Time
Not documented
Temperature
53–56 °C
Measured
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Candida
Wickerhamomyces
Bacillus
Yeasts
Lactobacillus

Output: medium-temperature daqu.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Candida and Wickerhamomyces heat the bricks; heat-tolerant Bacillus and Thermoascus survive

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Strong-aroma baijiu is a grain spirit fermented for about two months in pits lined with living mud. Each round, fresh grain and husk are mixed into old fermented grain, steamed while the old grain is distilled, cooled, given daqu and sealed back in the pit. Bacteria in the pit mud make caproic acid, which becomes the fruity ester ethyl caproate. Made in 6 steps over 2 months – 2.3 months. The longest step, mud-pit fermentation, takes 2–2.3 months (Deng J 2025) and runs at 20–34 °C (Deng J 2025). Yeasts, the main ethanol makers and Lactobacillus, the most dominant bacteria and the main lactic acid maker in one study; lactic acid bacteria as a group reach up to 70 % relative abundance on days 8–25 in a review do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step2–2.3 monthsReported[deng2025]Mud-pit fermentation
Temperature20–34 °CReported[deng2025]Mud-pit fermentation

What makes this one different

Strong aroma grows its aroma in the pit mud; the Henan standard quotes the saying that the pit is the foundation. Sauce aroma instead heaps its grain hot on the floor and ferments in stone pits; light aroma ferments in buried jars.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Double-round bottom (shuanglundi)The fermented grains at the pit bottom get an extra fermentation round, with a proportion of daqu, yellow water and tail spirit added, to improve the base spirit.
  • Northern strong aroma (Henan standard)The Henan standard names old five-steamer (laowuzeng), continuous mash, mixed steaming and mixed firing, and solid-state mud-pit fermentation as its main features.

Made the nongxiang way

Safety

Ethyl carbamate, which IARC classes as a group 2A carcinogen, forms during strong-aroma fermentation. Citrulline, urea, hydrogen cyanide and alcohol are its main precursors. Pottery storage jars leach metals into the spirit, and a factory must test each batch for heavy metals and methanol before it leaves. Home or unlicensed spirit has no such check.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The Luzhou Laojiao distillery dates to 1573, in the Ming dynasty, and the style was first called "Lu aroma" after it, as it was believed to have been developed there. The distillery was included in the first national list of intangible cultural heritage in 2006. A paper on double-round bottom fermentation calls it an important innovation for the quality of the base spirit.

  1. [wp-baijiu] Wikipedia, Baijiu (outline only)wiki
  2. [xiao2017] Xiao C. et al. 2017, Bio-heat is a key environmental driver shaping the microbial community of medium-temperature Daqu, Appl. Environ. Microbiol. 83(23):e01550-17 (abstract)paper
  3. [bian2025] Bian M., Huang E., Xia S., He C., Ye G. 2025, Bioturbation analysis of microbial community and organic acid metabolism in the enriched liquid of pit mud by Daqu, HuangShui, and ZaoPei, Food Sci. Biotechnol.paper
  4. [deng2025] Deng J., He C.J., Wei C.H., Luo H.B., Huang Z.G. 2025, Characterization of fermentation parameters, volatile compounds and microbial community structure of fermented grains in the upper and lower layers during strong-flavor baijiu fermentation, Bioresour. Bioprocess.paper
  5. [wang2026] Wang L., Xiong Y., Song P., Deng B., Nie W., Lian B. 2026, Diversity, community, and function of lactic acid bacteria in the brewing of strong-flavor baijiu, a review, Foods 15(14):2484paper
  6. [henan2020] Henan Society of Food Science and Technology 2020, T/SYMBJ group standard (public-comment draft), Technical specification for brewing strong-aroma baijiu (浓香型白酒酿造生产技术规范)spec
  7. [wp-luzhou] Wikipedia, Luzhou Laojiao (history only)wiki
  8. [yang2025] Yang H., Hu X., Tian J., Xie L., Chen M., Huang D. 2025, Exploring the influence of pottery jar formula variables on flavor substances through feature ranking and machine learning, case study of Maotai-flavored baijiu, Foods 14(6):1063 (introduction on storage in pottery jars)paper
  9. [li2025drbf] Li J. et al. 2025, Multi-omics insights into microbial community dynamics and functional shifts during double-round bottom fermentation of strong-flavor baijiu, Foods 14(24):4228paper
  10. [zhang2024ec] Zhang L., Qiu Y., Zhang Y., Jia Y., Sun B., Dong W. 2024, Decoding the formation and elimination mechanism of ethyl carbamate in strong-aroma baijiu, Foods 13(23):3743paper