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Fish and seafood from Philippines
Bagoong isda is small fish such as anchovy, sardine or round scad mixed with salt and left in earthen jars for months until the flesh breaks down into a reddish-brown paste (Sanchez 1999; Wikipedia says usually pale gray to white and gives 30 to 90 days for the paste); the liquid that rises in a longer ferment is drained as patis, the Philippine fish sauce. Bacterial and fish enzymes, not lactic acid, do most of the work.
| Small fish (Stolephorus, Sardinella fimbriata or Decapterus species), well drained | [sanchez1999][narzary2021][wp-bagoong] |
| SaltSalt to fish 1:3 to 2:7, depending on fish size | Narzary et al. do not say whether the ratio is by weight or volume; Wikipedia says the mix is usually made by volume[sanchez1999][narzary2021][wp-bagoong] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days – 3 months
What changes: Starting material: small fish, washed and drained
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Bagoong isda is small fish such as anchovy, sardine or round scad mixed with salt and left in earthen jars for months until the flesh breaks down into a reddish-brown paste (Sanchez 1999; Wikipedia says usually pale gray to white and gives 30 to 90 days for the paste); the liquid that rises in a longer ferment is drained as patis, the Philippine fish sauce. Bacterial and fish enzymes, not lactic acid, do most of the work. Made in 4 steps over 30 days – 3 months. The longest step, ferment in earthen jars in a warm place, takes 30 days – 3 months (Wikipedia 2026) and runs at 40 °C (Sanchez P.C. 1999). Salt is 22–25 % (Narzary Y 2021). Bacillus pumilus and Bacillus coagulans, B. megaterium and B. subtilis do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30 days – 3 monthsReported[wp-bagoong] | Ferment in earthen jars in a warm place |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 40 °CReported[sanchez1999] | Ferment in earthen jars in a warm place |
| Salt | 22–25 %Reported[narzary2021] | Mix with salt |
| Acidity | pH 5.9Reported[sanchez1999][narzary2021] | Separate the paste from the patis |
Bagoong isda is the solid part of the same ferment that gives patis. Unlike burong isda or balao-balao it has no rice, so it ripens by protein breakdown under high salt rather than by lactic souring.
Bagoong is not soured, so its safety rests on salt. Histamine can form in fish while it is salted and fermented until the product is fully shelf-stable, and the US FDA sets a guidance level of 50 ppm histamine in fish flesh. Use fresh, chilled fish.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Felice Sta. Maria's Philippine Food History site says that in 1609 Antonio de Morga wrote that the natives liked to eat "rotten fish", and that the earliest appearance of the word bagoong could be 1613, in Fr. San Buenaventura's entry for salmuera (brine), defining it as fish or shrimp fermented in salt. Wikipedia quotes José Rizal's 1890 annotation of Morga, which says the fish Morga meant is bagoong and that it is not, and should not be, rotten.
