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Sauces and condiments from Malaysia

Budubudu

Budu is a thick, cloudy anchovy sauce from the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia and southern Thailand. Whole anchovies are packed with salt at about two or three parts fish to one of salt and left for months in tanks or earthen jars until the flesh dissolves into a brown, salty liquid with grey fish solids.

Fully documentedSauces and condiments3 months – 12 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceRatios, not a fixed batch. A study sample of about 30 kg came from a Kelantan factory at 3 parts fish to 1 part salt.
Fresh anchovies (Stolephorus spp.)2 or 3 parts by weightThai budu also uses Clupeoides and Sardinella[sim2015][jircas-budu]
Salt1 part by weightFish to salt 2:1 or 3:1 in Malaysia, 3:1 to 2.5:1 in Thailand; one factory gives 70:30[sim2015][jircas-budu][periuk]
Tamarind juiceOptionalOne Malaysian budu sample analysed in the 1980s had tamarind juice added[mizutani1988]
Sugar and pepperTo tasteAdded to factory budu after it is cooked[periuk]
Starterspontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 3 months – 12 months

Start
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What changes: Whole anchovies are mixed with salt and packed tight

Step 1 of 4
Wash the anchovies and mix with salt
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Micrococcus

Output: salted anchovies packed tight.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Budu is a thick, cloudy anchovy sauce from the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia and southern Thailand. Whole anchovies are packed with salt at about two or three parts fish to one of salt and left for months in tanks or earthen jars until the flesh dissolves into a brown, salty liquid with grey fish solids. Made in 4 steps over 3 months – 12 months. The longest step, ferment under a salt cap, takes 3–12 months (Sim K.Y 2015) and runs at 30–40 °C (Sim K.Y 2015). Salt is 20–25 % (Sim K.Y 2015). Micrococcus luteus and Staphylococcus arlettae do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step3–12 monthsReported[sim2015][jircas-budu]Ferment under a salt cap
Temperature30–40 °CReported[sim2015]Ferment under a salt cap
Salt20–25 %Measured[sim2015]Ferment under a salt cap
AciditypH 6.7Measured[sim2015]Ferment under a salt cap

What makes this one different

Budu sits between a clear fish sauce and a fish paste. Unlike nam pla or patis it is not drained clear; the dissolved flesh stays in, so it is thick and cloudy.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Thai southern styleEaten with chilli, shallot, sugar and lime juice added.
  • Thai central style (khao yam)Boiled with lemongrass, galangal and bitter orange leaves, then decanted.

Safety

A Kelantan study linked falling bacterial counts late in fermentation to the high salt, 20–25 %. A 2009 USM thesis proposed quality limits for budu of salt at 15.0–33.0 % (w/v), pH 5.3–6.2 and histamine at most 50.0 mg/100 g. That histamine figure is looser than the 40 mg/100 g Codex sets for fish sauce, which it defines as a translucent liquid. Eight Malaysian budu samples averaged 187.7 mg/kg histamine (Saaid et al. 2009), which is about 18.8 mg/100 g. That mean is under both limits, but the abstract we read gives no single-sample figures. FDA says histamine, once formed, cannot be removed by heat.

Hazards the sources name: Histamine (eight Malaysian budu samples averaged 187.7 mg/kg); Staphylococcus aureus (listed among budu isolates).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Periuk calls Kelantan the place of origin of budu. In Thailand, JIRCAS records budu as made in the home or as a village industry, mostly in the south.

  1. [sim2015] Sim K.Y., Chye F.Y., Anton A. 2015, Chemical composition and microbial dynamics of budu fermentation, a traditional Malaysian fish sauce, Acta Alimentaria 44(2):185–194, doi:10.1556/AAlim.2014.0003paper
  2. [jircas-budu] JIRCAS (Japan International Research Center for Agricultural Sciences), Database of Fermented Foods of Thailand, 'Budu'gov
  3. [usm-budu] Tan Sali A. 2009, Effect of fermentation temperature, type of fish and salt concentration on physico-chemical characteristics of budu, MSc thesis, Universiti Sains Malaysia (abstract)paper
  4. [narzary2021] Narzary Y. et al. 2021, Fermented fish products in South and Southeast Asian cuisine, Journal of Ethnic Foods 8, PMC8579182 (review)paper
  5. [mizutani1988] Mizutani T., Kimizuka A., Ruddle K., Ishige N. 1988, A chemical analysis of fermented fish products (Study of Fermented Aquatic Products 6), Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology 12(3), table 3 (Malaysian budu sample)paper
  6. [periuk] Periuk, The making of budu, our underrated condiment (factory visit)web
  7. [saaid2009] Saaid M., Saad B., Hashim N.H. et al. 2009, Determination of biogenic amines in selected Malaysian food, Food Chem. 113(4):1356–1362, doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2008.08.070 (abstract)paper
  8. [codex302] Codex Alimentarius Commission, Standard for Fish Sauce, CXS 302-2011 (amended 2012, 2013), FAO/WHOspec
  9. [fda-ch7] US Food and Drug Administration, Fish and Fishery Products Hazards and Controls Guidance, chapter 7, Scombrotoxin (histamine) formationgov