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Akumochizake is sake that is kept from spoiling by wood ash instead of heat. The mash is brewed like ordinary sake, then wood ash is stirred in before pressing; it turns the sake slightly alkaline, which holds back acid-loving spoilage bacteria. Kumamoto's akazake survives today as a sweet, reddish sake used for cooking and for New Year toso.
Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks
Recipe
No fixed amounts recordedTraditional process. The sources read give no batch size or fixed amounts of rice, koji or ash.
Rice, rice koji, water and yeast, fermented into a mash as for ordinary sake
The Ministry of Agriculture describes it as rice with koji culture, water and yeast[maff-akazake]
Glutinous rice, with the water cut by nearly half, and barley malt added near the end
The Japanese Wikipedia account of akazake brewing[jawp-akumochi]
Wood ash, mixed with lime for akazake
Added just before the mash is pressed and removed again by pressing; none stays in the sake[maff-akazake][jawp-akumochi]
Starter
koji/qu/mold-starter (koji culture and yeast added to the rice)
Start
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What changes:Koji and yeast work a thick mash, as for ordinary sake
Step 1 of 4
Brew a sweet, thick mash
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
Yeasts
The mash is thick because the water is cut by nearly half and glutinous rice is added. Output: moromi mash.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
koji turns the starch to sugar and yeast makes alcohol, as in sake
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Akumochizake is sake that is kept from spoiling by wood ash instead of heat. The mash is brewed like ordinary sake, then wood ash is stirred in before pressing; it turns the sake slightly alkaline, which holds back acid-loving spoilage bacteria. Kumamoto's akazake survives today as a sweet, reddish sake used for cooking and for New Year toso. Koji culture and yeast, as in ordinary sake brewing does most of the fermenting.
Ordinary seishu is kept by heating it (hi-ire). Akumochizake is kept instead by wood ash added before pressing, which makes it slightly alkaline, so it takes on a reddish-brown colour that darkens with age.
Akazake (Kumamoto)Glutinous rice added, water cut by nearly half, barley malt added near the end, and ash mixed with lime stirred in just before pressing; stored without pasteurising. Its red colour comes from the reaction of alkali, sugar and amino acids. Production was banned in the Second World War and restarted in 1949.
Jizake (Kagoshima)Brewed almost like ordinary sake; shochu and wood ash are added just before pressing. It is the only Kagoshima sake that survives, and it is used mainly in cooking.
Jidenshu (Izumo, Shimane)Glutinous rice and long-matured koji with the water cut by over half, and ash added a few days before pressing; the richest of the ash sakes.
Safety
In a 12-month study of opened cooking akazake, the pH fell and the colour darkened at room temperature, much less at 5 °C. The study judged taste, colour and pH, not microbes. It advises keeping it cold after opening or using it within 3 months.
Hazards the sources name: Acid-loving spoilage bacteria, held back by the alkaline ash.
Akazake was made as an offering drink before the Nara period, and the Engishiki, a Heian-era compilation of laws and customs, records how it was made. In the Edo-era Kumamoto domain the Hosokawa clan made it the official sake and restricted other sake coming in. After the Meiji Restoration and the Satsuma Rebellion, other sake could be made and sold in Kumamoto, and brewers switched from ash to pasteurisation. Akazake was banned during the Second World War and restarted in 1949.
Process times
The sources we found give no figure for how long any of its steps take.