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Whole cow milk, usually pasteurised, is soured with lactic cultures and a little rennet for 15 to 20 hours. The soft curd drains under its own weight in cone-shaped moulds or in cloth, is salted, and may be kneaded with paprika. It is eaten fresh or ripened for up to 60 days, and is crumbly, sour and dry in the throat.
Only in the red (roxu) kinds, kneaded into the curd[afuega-spec2008]
Starter
lactic cultures added to pasteurised milk; traditionally the milk was left to sour naturally
Total time across the recorded steps: 7.6 days – 2.1 months
Start
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What changes:The milk is pasteurised before the cultures go in
Step 1 of 7
Pasteurise the milk
Time
0.3–0.5 min
Set
Temperature
72 °C
Set
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Lactococcus lactis
Leuconostoc citreum
Cheeses ripened for 60 days may be made from unpasteurised milk.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Whole cow milk, usually pasteurised, is soured with lactic cultures and a little rennet for 15 to 20 hours. The soft curd drains under its own weight in cone-shaped moulds or in cloth, is salted, and may be kneaded with paprika. It is eaten fresh or ripened for up to 60 days, and is crumbly, sour and dry in the throat. Made in 7 steps over 7.6 days – 2.1 months. The longest step, ripen in chambers, takes 5 days – 2 months (Consejo Regulador / Principado de Asturias 2008). Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis and its diacetylactis biovar, with Leuconostoc citreum, the strains of a pilot-plant starter for this cheese does most of the fermenting.
It is set mainly by slow souring, with only a little rennet, so the curd is soft and drains under its own weight without pressing. The ripe cheese crumbles instead of slicing and feels dry in the throat; one reading of the name points to that.
Milk
Whole cow milk, pasteurised unless the cheese ripens 60 days
Paste
Soft, lactic-set; at least 45 % fat in dry matter, 35 % protein in dry matter, 30 % dry matter; pH 4.1–5
Ripening
5 to 60 days
Size
200–600 g; 5–12 cm high, 8–14 cm across the base; truncated cone or gourd shape
Atroncau blancuUnkneaded curd moulded in cone-shaped moulds; white.
Atroncau roxuCurd kneaded with salt and paprika, then moulded in cones lined with gauze; red-orange.
Trapu blancuKneaded curd tied in gauze and hung for 24 hours, giving a gourd shape; white.
Trapu roxuKneaded with paprika, tied in gauze and hung; gourd-shaped and red-orange.
Safety
The PDO rules require pasteurisation at 72 °C for 15–30 seconds unless the cheese ripens 60 days. In pilot trials with pasteurised milk and a starter, Listeria added to the milk grew during souring, then was not found after day 7 as the cheese reached about pH 4.0. Those trials did not test raw milk. Ageing alone does not make raw-milk cheese safe. The US FDA says 60 days may not eliminate or adequately reduce E. coli O157:H7 and Salmonella in raw-milk cheese, and Listeria may grow in some cheeses during ageing. The PDO rules hold packed cheese in cold rooms at 4–10 °C until sale.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, added to pasteurised milk in pilot trials; it grew during souring, then fell and was not found after day 7.
Written records show the cheese at least from the 18th century as a way to pay taxes, under names such as quesu de puñu. Late 19th-century authors describe it as common across most of Asturias. The name means "choke the chicken" in Asturian; explanations range from the tied neck of the draining bag to the way the dry cheese catches in the throat. The PDO application was published in the Official Journal on 10 November 2007, and the name was registered as a PDO in 2008.