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Fermented milk from Italy, Lombardia
Zincarlin is a salted, peppered ricotta from the province of Como. Raw whole cow whey, sometimes with goat or cow milk, is heated to 90 °C and set with a fruit-soured acid whey; the ricotta is drained in cloths, kneaded with salt, shaped into balls, rolled in black pepper and eaten fresh or ripened for up to a year.
| Raw whole cow whey | From full-fat cheesemaking[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Raw whole goat or cow milk | Added sometimes[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Acid whey (agra or maistra) | Last year's acid whey with lemon leaves and slices and green plums[pat-sheet] |
| Salt | [pat-sheet] |
| Ground black pepper | Coats the outside[pat-sheet] |
| Starter | The ricotta is set by heat and acid whey (agra or maistra) kept from the year before |
Total time across the recorded steps: 0 min – 12 months
What changes: Whole whey, sometimes with goat or cow milk, is heated to 90 °C
Output: hot whey.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Zincarlin is a salted, peppered ricotta from the province of Como. Raw whole cow whey, sometimes with goat or cow milk, is heated to 90 °C and set with a fruit-soured acid whey; the ricotta is drained in cloths, kneaded with salt, shaped into balls, rolled in black pepper and eaten fresh or ripened for up to a year. Made in 5 steps over 0 min – 12 months. The longest step, sell fresh or ripen, takes 0 min – 12 months (ONAF). In the related ricotta forte, a naturally fermented ricotta cheese (not studied in zincarlin itself): 33 Lactobacillus strains of 10 species, among them Lactobacillus kefiri, L. paracasei, L. plantarum and L. paraplantarum does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 0 min – 12 monthsReported[onaf-sheet] | Sell fresh or ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 90 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Heat the whey |
The Como zincarlin starts from ricotta (maschèrpa), unlike Zincarlin de Varées, which is made from goat cheeses, and Ticino zincarlin, made from a lactic cow curd washed with white wine.
The PAT sheet credits the 90 °C whey and the ripening for the cheese's safety. The whey and milk go in raw, the curd is salted and shaped after the heat step, and fresh zincarlin is eaten unripened. The CDC advises people who are pregnant, aged 65 or over or immunocompromised to avoid unheated fresh soft cheeses, because of Listeria (CDC).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The PAT sheet calls zincarlin an old cheese from the pastures of Monte Generoso, on the border between the Val d'Intelvi and Switzerland, and from the valleys further north on the west shore of Lake Como. Ricotta was originally a waste of cheesemaking; the sheet credits the master cheesemakers of the Lario with the idea of flavouring and enriching it so that it could be sold for more in the lakeside trade. In the Como area and the Ossola, summer alpine pastures gave large amounts of whey, which called for ways of keeping the fat ricotta (maschèrpa) for later sale. In the past, ripened balls were kept over winter in cupboards called marne.
