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Cheese from Central Asia
Suzma is katyk (qatiq), a sour milk made from milk preheated to about 90 °C and fermented from 40 °C, that is concentrated and salted by draining it in a cloth. The Afghan form, chakah, drains the sour buttermilk left after churning mast for 8–10 hours, then salts it. Salted suzma is also rolled into balls and dried into qurut.
| Katyk, qatiq or mast (yoghurt-like sour milk) | [kochetkova2022][fao-tmp] |
| Saltsome | [fao-tmp] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 8 h – 10 h
What changes: Milk heated to about 90 °C cools to 40 °C and then ferments into katyk
Output: katyk, qatiq or mast.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Suzma is katyk (qatiq), a sour milk made from milk preheated to about 90 °C and fermented from 40 °C, that is concentrated and salted by draining it in a cloth. The Afghan form, chakah, drains the sour buttermilk left after churning mast for 8–10 hours, then salts it. Salted suzma is also rolled into balls and dried into qurut. Made in 5 steps over 8 h – 10 h. The longest step, hang in a cloth to drain, takes 8–10 h (FAO 1990). In two matsoni-like products from Russia (matsoni is called katyk in Uzbekistan), Streptococcus made up 74–98 % of bacteria, with Lactobacillus the next genus and Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 8–10 hReported[fao-tmp] | Hang in a cloth to drain |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 40 °CReported[kochetkova2022] | Make katyk |
Katyk drained in a cloth until it is a thick, salted paste rather than a drink or a set gel; ayran is made by diluting suzma or katyk with water. Afghan chakah drains the buttermilk left after butter making.
The FAO sheet for Afghan chakah says it is eaten fresh after making. In eastern Turkey, süzme (condensed) yoghurt stored buried under soil carried type A botulinum toxin and caused an outbreak of 10 cases, the largest reported in Turkey to date. In an Iranian study of bag-strained yoghurts, a related product, psychrotroph, mould and yeast counts rose during storage, while coliform, S. aureus and E. coli counts did not change.
Hazards the sources name: Coliforms, Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli (tested in Tuluq and Torba; counts did not change during storage); Clostridium botulinum type A toxin, found in Turkish süzme yoghurt stored buried under soil.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Oskenbay (2016), quoting the Russian food historian Pokhlyobkin, lists suzma, which she defines as sour milk strained in a canvas bag, with qatyk, qurt and ayran among the milk products of the Turkic-speaking peoples of Central Asia, Kazakhstan and the Caucasus.
