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Cheese from France, Touraine
Raw whole goat milk is set slowly, mostly by lactic souring with a very little rennet, for 18 to 48 hours. The curd is ladled into long cone-shaped moulds and drains by itself, then the log is salted, coated with charcoal ash and threaded with an engraved cereal straw. It stays in the ripening room at least 10 days from renneting, until a fine mould rind covers it.
| Raw whole goat milkAbout 2.5 L per cheese | Alpine, Saanen or Poitevine goats or their crosses; milked at most 48 h before collection. The mould holds about one goat's daily milk.[cdc-smt2021] |
| Whey or lactic cultures | Optional, to ripen the milk before renneting[cdc-smt2021] |
| Rennet (520 mg chymosin per litre)At most 5 ml per 100 L of milk | [cdc-smt2021] |
| Salt and vegetable charcoal | Rubbed on every face after unmoulding[cdc-smt2021] |
| Mould and yeast cultures | Optional; the rind can also come from the raw-milk flora[cdc-smt2021] |
| Engraved cereal straw1 per cheese | Engraved with at least the appellation name and a code that identifies the dairy[cdc-smt2021] |
| Starter | raw-milk flora, whey from earlier batches or added mesophilic lactic cultures |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.5 days – 3.8 days
What changes: Whey or lactic cultures go into raw goat milk to start the souring
Output: ripened raw milk.
Microbes at work in this step
lactic bacteria start to grow, with or without whey or cultures added
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw whole goat milk is set slowly, mostly by lactic souring with a very little rennet, for 18 to 48 hours. The curd is ladled into long cone-shaped moulds and drains by itself, then the log is salted, coated with charcoal ash and threaded with an engraved cereal straw. It stays in the ripening room at least 10 days from renneting, until a fine mould rind covers it. Made in 6 steps over 2.5 days – 3.8 days. The longest step, set slowly with a little rennet, takes 18 h – 2 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2021) and runs at up to 25 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2021). Mesophilic lactic acid bacteria from the raw milk, whey or added cultures, which set the curd and Surface moulds and yeasts, from the raw milk or added cultures, which form the bloomy rind do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 18 h – 2 daysSet[cdc-smt2021] | Set slowly with a little rennet |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 25 °CSet[cdc-smt2021] | Set slowly with a little rennet |
Sainte-Maure is the long log of the Loire goat cheeses. Its mould is a narrow cone 26 cm long, and a cereal straw engraved with the appellation name and a code for the dairy runs through it. Valençay and Pouligny are pyramids and Selles-sur-Cher is a flat disc.
This is a raw-milk soft cheese. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Gruyère or Comté, because of Listeria, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin E. coli. ANSES says cooking the cheese well, as in an oven dish, removes the risk; taking off the rind does not.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Until the mid-20th century Touraine had no goat herds; poor rural homes kept one to three goats, and the grandmother made the cheese in the kitchen and dried it near the fire. One mould held one goat's daily milk. The moulds were first made of woven wicker. The straw was added to make the fragile log easier to handle, then became a way for consumers to identify the cheese. The specification in force was homologated by arrêté of 17 November 2021.
