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Cheese from Italy, Calabria
Smoked goat ricotta is a boundary entry, set by heat and acid, not by microbes. Goat whey with a little milk and salt is heated in a tinned copper pot to about 80–90 °C and stirred until the flakes rise; they drain a whole day in rush baskets, are salted and then smoked and dried over wood fires for days. It is aged at least 2 months in a cool, dark place, though some is sold after a short smoking.
| Goat whey left from goat cheese making | [pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Goat milk | ONAF gives 10–20 litres per hectolitre of whey, optional[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Coarse salt | ONAF gives 2% in the whey; the cheeses are also salted dry after draining[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | none; heat and the whey's own acidity make the curd |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.1 months
What changes: Starting material: goat whey left from cheesemaking, strained into a copper pot
The whey left after the goat curd is lifted is strained through a mesh into a tinned copper pot (caccamo).
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Smoked goat ricotta is a boundary entry, set by heat and acid, not by microbes. Goat whey with a little milk and salt is heated in a tinned copper pot to about 80–90 °C and stirred until the flakes rise; they drain a whole day in rush baskets, are salted and then smoked and dried over wood fires for days. It is aged at least 2 months in a cool, dark place, though some is sold after a short smoking. Made in 6 steps over 2.1 months. The longest step, age in the dark, takes at least 2 months (Regione Calabria).
| Main step | at least 2 monthsReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Age in the dark |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 80–90 °CReported[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Heat with milk and salt |
Calabrian goat ricotta that is salted, wood-smoked and aged at least 2 months, so it turns firm and grateable. The Mammola ricotta is shaped with a swollen head like a drumstick.
The regional file names unpasteurised whey and milk, tinned copper pots, wooden and rush tools and the ageing rooms as risks. It says unpasteurised whey and milk can bring problems of total bacterial count, somatic cells and Staphylococcus aureus. It advises checking the milk first, good hygiene and a visual check of the finished ricotta, discarding any with faults.
Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus aureus, named in the regional file as a risk of unpasteurised whey and milk.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The ONAF sheet traces the word ricotta to Latin recoctus, "cooked twice", and says the product can be dated to Greco-Roman times, citing Columella's De re rustica for ricotta in general. It says that long ago shepherds in distant mountain areas smoked or dried unsold fresh ricotta and took it to market once a week. It cites Achille Bruni, Nuova Enciclopedia Agraria (Naples, 1859) and the CNR study on dairy products of the Mezzogiorno (Milan, 1992), and says a Belmonte Calabro dairy has records of production for more than the 25 years the PAT rules require. Mammola holds a Festa della Ricotta Affumicata every year on the first Sunday of June.
