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Cheese from Minas Gerais, Brazil
A farm cheese of whole raw cow milk, made within about 90 minutes of milking. The milk is set with animal rennet and pingo, the salty whey that dripped from the previous day's cheeses, then cut, hand-pressed into round forms and dry-salted twice; the whey that drips overnight becomes the next day's pingo. The cheeses ripen on wooden shelves, for at least 22 days for Canastra under state rules.
| Whole raw cow milk | Filtered within about 90 minutes of milking[campos2019] |
| Pingo (natural whey starter from the day before)100–500 ml per 100 litres of milk (0.2–0.5 litre in Faria Júnior) | [campos2019][faria2007] |
| Animal rennet (calf chymosin and/or pepsin), powder or liquid | Dose as the maker's label says[campos2019] |
| Coarse salt40–120 g per kg of curd (dry salting); some makers also add 100–500 g per 100 litres to the milk | [campos2019] |
| Starter | pingo: salted whey that drips overnight from the day's cheeses, used as the next day's starter |
Total time across the recorded steps: 15 days – 23 days
What changes: Pingo from yesterday's cheeses and rennet go into raw milk within 90 minutes of milking
Microbes at work in this step
salt-tolerant lactic bacteria from the pingo start the souring
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A farm cheese of whole raw cow milk, made within about 90 minutes of milking. The milk is set with animal rennet and pingo, the salty whey that dripped from the previous day's cheeses, then cut, hand-pressed into round forms and dry-salted twice; the whey that drips overnight becomes the next day's pingo. The cheeses ripen on wooden shelves, for at least 22 days for Canastra under state rules. Made in 6 steps over 15 days – 23 days. The longest step, ripen on wooden shelves, takes 14–22 days (Instituto Mineiro de Agropecuária (IMA) 2013). Lactococcus lactis, prevalent in pingo from five of the six Canastra and Salitre farms studied and Lactobacillus casei, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Streptococcus salivarius and Lactococcus garvieae, found in some farms' pingo do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 14–22 daysSet[ima1305] | Ripen on wooden shelves |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 5Measured[campos2019] | Ripen on wooden shelves |
Each day's cheese is soured with pingo, the salty whey that dripped from the cheeses made the day before, so every farm keeps its own back-slopped culture. State rules set a minimum ripening time for each microregion.
The cheese is made from raw milk, and state rules set a minimum ripening time to control pathogens. In a 2019 study of 78 Canastra farms, more than half of the ripened samples failed at least one legal microbial limit, with coagulase-positive Staphylococcus up to 7.6 log CFU/g and E. coli up to 5.8 log CFU/g, and one carried Listeria monocytogenes. Pingo from some farms carried Bacillus cereus.
Hazards the sources name: Bacillus cereus and B. cereus-like bacteria, at high counts in pingo from some farms; Coagulase-positive Staphylococcus and E. coli (up to 7.6 and 5.8 log CFU/g in ripened Canastra cheeses); Listeria monocytogenes in one sample; no Salmonella.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Campos (2019) dates the start of production to the Portuguese in the 18th century, with methods from the Serra da Estrela. Faria Júnior (2007) notes that the flower and bud extracts used to curdle milk in Portugal were replaced in Brazil by dried, salted calf or kid stomach. Costa Junior et al. (2009) found the composition of a Canastra farm's cheese changed with the season, partly because the pingo changed.
