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Sauces and condiments from Sichuan and Guizhou, China
Whole fresh chillies are sunk in salted brine, often with sugar, liquor, ginger and garlic, and left sealed for weeks to months while lactic bacteria and yeasts sour them. Aged brine from earlier batches is often added. The chillies lose hardness and pungency and turn sour and salty.
| Whole fresh ripe chillies | Washed and air-dried; Xiaomila and Zhuzijiao in the Guizhou study[huang2025] |
| Salt, in the brine9 % | [huang2025] |
| Sugar, in the brine2.5 % | [huang2025] |
| Chinese liquor (baijiu), in the brine1 % | [huang2025] |
| Minced ginger and garlic, in the brine1 % each | [huang2025] |
| Aged brine from earlier batches (optional starter) | Brines kept going for 5 to 50 years were tested in a Sichuan study[wang2026][zhang2022] |
| Starter | spontaneous, or backslop with aged brine from earlier batches |
Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days – 3 months
What changes: Starting material: fresh whole red chillies
Output: clean whole chillies.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole fresh chillies are sunk in salted brine, often with sugar, liquor, ginger and garlic, and left sealed for weeks to months while lactic bacteria and yeasts sour them. Aged brine from earlier batches is often added. The chillies lose hardness and pungency and turn sour and salty. Made in 5 steps over 30 days – 3 months. The longest step, ferment, takes 30 days – 3 months (Huang Q 2025) and runs at 20–30 °C (Huang Q 2025). Salt is 9 % (Huang Q 2025). Lactobacillus, rising to 77.76 % of bacteria by day 63 in one variety (42.76 % in the other); Weissella, 8.31 % and 15.54 % on day 7 and under 4 % by day 63 and Levilactobacillus (dominant), Weissella, Lactiplantibacillus, Companilactobacillus and Pediococcus in aged-brine ferments do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30 days – 3 monthsReported[huang2025][zhang2022] | Ferment |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 20–30 °CReported[huang2025][zhang2022] | Ferment |
| Salt | 9 %Reported[huang2025] | Make the brine |
| Acidity | pH 3.3–3.4Measured[huang2025] | Ferment |
Paojiao ferments whole chillies in a liquid brine, like Sichuan paocai, so the chillies keep their shape. Chinese chilli mash is chopped or ground with dry salt into a paste and is much saltier.
The brine reaches about pH 3.3. Nitrite peaks in the first week and then falls.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Zhang and colleagues (2022) say pickle jars, porcelain ones in particular, are the traditional fermenting vessels for vegetables, and call pickled chilli one of the most typical fermented vegetables of south-west China. Because a jar holds little, industry moved to large fermentation pools where the chillies are pressed under nets and boards and the brine is pumped round.
