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Fermented milk from Roman Empire
Columella's recipe sets the freshest ewe's milk in a new pot with a plugged hole near the base, with bundles of green herbs in it. Over ten days the milk sours and the whey is let out through the hole three times, then dried herbs, leek and salt go in and the pot is sealed until needed.
| Ewe's milk, as fresh as possible | Enough to fill a new pot[columella] |
| Bundles of fresh oregano, mint, onion and coriander | Tied so the ties stick out of the milk; taken out after eight days[columella] |
| Dried thyme and dried cunila (a savory-like herb; marjoram in one translation)a little | [columella][cesila2025] |
| Chopped leekas much as seems right | [columella] |
| Ground saltas much as is enough | [columella] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days
What changes: A hole is bored near the bottom of a new pot and stopped with a twig
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Columella's recipe sets the freshest ewe's milk in a new pot with a plugged hole near the base, with bundles of green herbs in it. Over ten days the milk sours and the whey is let out through the hole three times, then dried herbs, leek and salt go in and the pot is sealed until needed. Made in 6 steps over 10 days. The longest step, let the whey out after five days, takes 5 days (Columella).
| Main step | 5 daysReported[columella][cesila2025] | Let the whey out after five days |
|---|
Oxygala is drained through a hole in the pot rather than hung in a cloth, and it is flavoured with herbs and leek and salted before it is sealed. Labneh is strained in a cloth.
Columella's recipe calls for the freshest possible ewe's milk and mentions no heating of it. CDC says eating products made from raw milk can expose people to germs, and that children under 5, adults over 65, pregnant women and people with weakened immune systems are at higher risk of serious illness.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Columella describes oxygala in Book XII of De re rustica (1st century AD), among the preserves the farm manager's wife (vilica) was expected to make (Cesila 2025). Oxygala was a fermented milk known in the Hellenistic and Roman periods, but its precise nature is uncertain because ancient texts use the word for various soured products (Wikipedia).
