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Fermented milk from Italy, Lombardy

Mascherpa d'Alpemaschèrpa

Whey left from Bitto cheesemaking is heated, a little whole cow or goat milk is added, and lactic acid sets the proteins into flakes that are drained, dry-salted and aged at least 30 days. It is a boundary entry, set by acid and heat, not by microbes.

Fully documentedFermented milk33 days – 34 daysPATFamily: Whey cheese (heat-precipitated whey protein) family

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceProportions only; the milk is 5–6 % of the whey in the regional sheet. The Slow Food Ark of Taste description of the Orobie alpine maschèrpa differs, giving 60–65 °C for the first heating and about 10 % goat milk.
Whey from whole cow milk cheesemaking[lomb-text][onaf-sheet]
Whole cow and/or goat milk5–6 %[lomb-text]
Lactic acid (today, mostly in soured whey)Formerly agra, a sour whey kept going from batch to batch and added at 1–2 %[lomb-text][onaf-sheet]
SaltRubbed on dry[lomb-text]
Starternone; set by heat and lactic acid (today mostly in soured whey)

Total time across the recorded steps: 33 days – 34 days

Start
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65–70 °C

What changes: Whey from Bitto making is heated and a little whole milk goes in

Step 1 of 4
Heat the whey and add milk
Time
Not documented
Temperature
65–70 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: whey with added milk.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
liquid
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Whey left from Bitto cheesemaking is heated, a little whole cow or goat milk is added, and lactic acid sets the proteins into flakes that are drained, dry-salted and aged at least 30 days. It is a boundary entry, set by acid and heat, not by microbes. Made in 4 steps over 33 days – 34 days. The longest step, age on wooden boards, takes at least 30 days (Mascherpa d'Alpe).

Key numbers
Main stepat least 30 daysReported[lomb-text][onaf-sheet]Age on wooden boards
Temperature65–70 °CReported[lomb-text]Heat the whey and add milk

What makes this one different

A salted, aged alpine ricotta made in the second half of the pasture season, when milk is richer; early-season mascherpa is sold fresh and unsalted. It is set by acid and heat, not by microbes.

Rind
None; may show light brown mould; light brown if smoked
Size
Truncated cone or cylinder, about 23 cm across and 30 cm high; about 4 kg
Boundary
Set by acid and heat, not by microbes

Related ferments

Variants

  • Fresh unsalted mascherpaMade in the first half of the alpine season and sold fresh.
  • Smoked mascherpaLightly smoked; light brown outside.

Safety

The whey is heated to 85–90 °C, the forms are dry-salted on both faces and aged at least 30 days in an airy room on wooden boards. The room must not dry the forms too much or let mould form too fast, and the brown mould that appears after a few weeks is cleaned off whenever the forms are turned. Rock alum, once used to sour the agra, was banned because it is toxic.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The word maschèrpa, also the root of mascarpone, seems to be of Longobard origin; in local tradition it names ricotta. Herders once soured the whey with agra, a sour whey made from the whey of an earlier successful batch and kept in a wooden cask (agreér) of 30–40 litres by the hearth, topped up daily at 1–2 % of the fresh whey. Rock alum, gentian root, juniper, dried plums, unripe fruit, vinegar and sorrel leaves helped it sour. After rock alum was banned for its toxicity, citric acid was used, and today lactic acid, mostly in soured whey. The Slow Food Foundation notes that the aged-maschèrpa rooms (maschèrpere) are now rare, found only in the highest pastures, above 2000–2100 m.

Microbes
No study we found names its microbes.
  1. [lomb-text] Mascherpa d'Alpe, Lombardy traditional product description attributed to Regione Lombardia (copy hosted by ONAF)gov
  2. [onaf-sheet] ONAF, Mascherpa d'Alpe cheese sheetweb
  3. [slowfood-orobie] Slow Food Foundation, Ark of Taste, Maschèrpa d'alpeggio delle Orobieweb