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Vegetables from New York City, USA

Kosher dill pickles (half-sour and full-sour)

Small cucumbers are packed with dill, garlic and spices under a salt brine and left to sour. Pulled after a few days and chilled they are half-sours, only partly soured; left three to six weeks they become full-sours, fully fermented.

Fully documentedVegetables4.9 months – 7.6 months

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe National Center for Home Food Preservation (NCHFP) tested recipe for full-sour fermented dills, per gallon of container. There is no tested recipe for half-sours, and NCHFP research advises against home methods that ferment a week at room temperature and then refrigerate.
Pickling cucumbers, about 4 inches long4 lb (about 1.8 kg)[nchfp-dill]
Dill seed2 TbspOr 4–5 heads of fresh or dried dill weed[nchfp-dill]
Salt½ cup[nchfp-dill]
Vinegar (5 %)¼ cup[nchfp-dill]
Water8 cups[nchfp-dill]
Garlic2 cloves, optional[nchfp-dill]
Dried red peppers2, optional[nchfp-dill]
Whole mixed pickling spices2 tsp, optional[nchfp-dill]
StarterNo starter culture in the NCHFP recipe; the lactic bacteria that start in the vessel with the cucumbers ferment it (Snyder 2020).

Total time across the recorded steps: 4.9 months – 7.6 months

Start
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What changes: A thin slice comes off the blossom end of each washed cucumber

Step 1 of 6
Wash and trim the cucumbers
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
L. plantarum

Cut 1/16 inch off the blossom end and discard it; leave ¼ inch of stem. Output: trimmed cucumbers.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
bright green

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Small cucumbers are packed with dill, garlic and spices under a salt brine and left to sour. Pulled after a few days and chilled they are half-sours, only partly soured; left three to six weeks they become full-sours, fully fermented. Made in 6 steps over 4.9 months – 7.6 months. The longest step, refrigerate or can, takes 4–6 months (National Center for Home Food Preservation (U…). Salt is 7 % (National Center for Home Food Preservation (U…). Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and related species and Lactic acid bacteria, which grew during the first week at room temperature do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step4–6 monthsReported[nchfp-dill]Refrigerate or can
Temperature21–24 °CReported[nchfp-dill]Full-sour: ferment to the end
Salt7 %Reported[nchfp-dill]Pour on the brine and weigh down
AciditypH 6.1–6.2 → 4.4Measured[kim2004]Half-sour: ferment a few days, then chill

What makes this one different

Half-sours and full-sours are the same pickle stopped at different points. Commercial salt-stock cucumbers ferment in stronger brine in large tanks and are desalted before use; kosher dills ferment with garlic and dill.

Related ferments

Safety

NCHFP researchers tested the half-sour style 'refrigerator dill', fermented a week at room temperature and then chilled, by dipping cucumbers in Listeria monocytogenes before brining. It rose about 2- to 10-fold (0.3 to 1 log) during the warm week and declined in the cold, but tested positive up to 49 days inside the pickles and 91 days on the surface. The researchers say home recipes for this method should not be given out. Snyder et al. also flag lightly fermented half-sours as a higher risk, because chilling slows the fermentation and the pH drop. Writing for small commercial makers, they treat a steady fall to below pH 4.6 as the control, because it makes botulism not reasonably likely and goes with a 5-log (100,000-fold) cut in enterohaemorrhagic E. coli. That cut takes time. E. coli O157:H7 may survive up to 2 weeks at 20 °C in commercial fermentation brines and a month or longer at 4 °C in acidified brines. Discard any pickles that turn soft or slimy or smell bad.

Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, in a challenge test where cucumbers were dipped in it before brining; it tested positive up to 49 days inside and 91 days on the surface of refrigerator dills.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Ashkenazi Jews came to the United States in large numbers from Central and Eastern Europe from the 1880s to about the 1920s. Most settled in New York City and brought their way of pickling with them (Smithsonian Magazine, quoting Liz Alpern). Dill pickles, whether or not called kosher, have been served in New York City since at least 1899 (Wikipedia).

  1. [nchfp-dill] National Center for Home Food Preservation (USDA and University of Georgia), Dill pickles (fermented)gov
  2. [kim2005] Kim J.K., D'Sa E.M., Harrison M.A., Harrison J.A. and Andress E.L. 2005, Listeria monocytogenes survival in refrigerator dill pickles, Journal of Food Protection 68(11), 2356–2361, doi:10.4315/0362-028X-68.11.2356 (abstract)paper
  3. [kim2004] Kim J.K., D'Sa E.M., Harrison M.A., Harrison J.A. and Andress E.L. 2004, Listeria monocytogenes survival in refrigerator dill pickles, poster 33C-1, Institute of Food Technologists Annual Meeting, Las Vegas, 14 July 2004 (NCHFP); an earlier report of the same studyother
  4. [snyder2020] Snyder A., Breidt F., Andress E.L. and Ingham B.H. 2020, Manufacture of traditionally fermented vegetable products, best practice for small businesses and retail food establishments, Food Protection Trends 40(4), 251–263paper
  5. [smithsonian-pickle] Kiniry L. 2023, The most surprising carnival treat might just be pickle on a stick, Smithsonian Magazine, 21 July 2023web
  6. [wp-pickled-cucumber] Wikipedia, Pickled cucumber (section Kosher dill)wiki