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Cheese from Kurdish regions of Iran, Iraq, Türkiye and Syria
Raw sheep milk, or cow milk in some places, is made into a salted curd that is packed into a clay jar called a kope. The jars are buried in the ground or kept cool, and the cheese ripens for months; studies followed it from 37 to 187 days and judged it best at about 127 days. It turns from salty and rubbery to sweet and cheesy, then bitter and pungent.
| Raw sheep milk | [esmaeilzadeh2025][nowruzi2026] |
| Salt (curd salting and brining) | [esmaeilzadeh2021] |
| Starter | none reported; the raw milk's own microbes |
Total time across the recorded steps: 37 days – 6.1 months
What changes: Raw sheep milk is curdled into a soft curd
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw sheep milk, or cow milk in some places, is made into a salted curd that is packed into a clay jar called a kope. The jars are buried in the ground or kept cool, and the cheese ripens for months; studies followed it from 37 to 187 days and judged it best at about 127 days. It turns from salty and rubbery to sweet and cheesy, then bitter and pungent. Made in 4 steps over 37 days – 6.1 months. The longest step, bury the jars and ripen, takes 37 days – 6.1 months (Esmaeilzadeh P 2025) and runs at 5–12 °C (Hasanzadeh A 2023).
| Main step | 37 days – 6.1 monthsReported[esmaeilzadeh2025][esmaeilzadeh2021] | Bury the jars and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 5–12 °CReported[hasanzadeh2023] | Bury the jars and ripen |
Kope is ripened in an earthenware jar buried in the soil, not in a skin, so it ripens cool and slowly. Jar-ripened cheese ends drier and firmer than the same cheese ripened in plastic.
Kope is made from raw milk. A PCR survey in West Azerbaijan found DNA of Coxiella burnetii, the Q fever agent, in 12.5 % of 240 Kope samples. The survey did not test whether the bacteria were alive. The authors cite work that found little or no viability in PCR-positive dairy products, and also a study that proved live bacteria in raw cheese. They say it is not established that eating cheese causes the infection, but they treat Kope as a risk factor and report disagreement over heat-treating its milk. ANSES names Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli as hazards of raw-milk cheeses and tells pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity to avoid them, apart from cooked pressed kinds such as Gruyère.
Hazards the sources name: Coxiella burnetii (the Q fever agent), whose DNA was detected by PCR in raw-milk Kope cheese from West Azerbaijan.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Kope is traditionally produced in the Kurdish regions of Iran, Iraq, Türkiye and Syria, from raw sheep milk ripened in a jar called a kope (Nowruzi 2026). A 2023 study compared jar and plastic packaging for bovine-milk Kope.
