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Meat from China
Pork hind legs are rubbed with sea salt six times over about a month in winter, soaked, scrubbed and sun-dried, then hung in airy upper-floor rooms from spring into summer while white and green moulds spread over the meat. The hams are then stacked to post-ripen; the whole cycle takes 7–10 months.
| Trimmed fresh pork hind legs, each over 6.0 kg10 kg | Thin skin, small trotter, lean, back fat over the sacrum no thicker than 3.5 cm[jhhta2019] |
| Coarse, dry sea salt with no anti-caking agentAbout 1000 g, no more than about 1200 g | Applied in six rounds of about 200, 500, 200 and 50 g, then small top-ups[jhhta2019] |
| Nitrate or nitrite (optional) | Within the national additive standard GB 2760; added at the second salting[jhhta2019] |
| Starter | spontaneous (Mao and colleagues call the Chinese traditional fermented meats they review, Jinhua ham included, spontaneously fermented) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 32 days – 34 days
What changes: The leg is trimmed to a bamboo-leaf shape and blood is pressed from its vessels
Hair, blood and loose fat are scraped off, the pelvic bones are cut back and the flesh side is trimmed smooth. Output: trimmed leg with blood pressed out of the vessels.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Pork hind legs are rubbed with sea salt six times over about a month in winter, soaked, scrubbed and sun-dried, then hung in airy upper-floor rooms from spring into summer while white and green moulds spread over the meat. The hams are then stacked to post-ripen; the whole cycle takes 7–10 months. Made in 6 steps over 32 days – 34 days. The longest step, salt six times and stack, takes at least 27 days (Jinhua Ham Industry Association 2019) and runs at 0–15 °C (Jinhua Ham Industry Association 2019). Salt is 10–12 % (Jinhua Ham Industry Association 2019). Surface moulds that start as small white spots and turn green as they spread and Aspergillus, Saccharomyces, Staphylococcus and Cobetia do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 27 daysSet[jhhta2019] | Salt six times and stack |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 0–15 °CSet[jhhta2019] | Salt six times and stack |
| Salt | 10–12 %Set[jhhta2019] | Salt six times and stack |
Jinhua ham is salted only in winter with heavy sea salt (about 10 %), sun-dried, and then ripened through spring and summer in upstairs rooms open to the weather, where moulds cover it.
The standard limits salting to the cold season, 0–15 °C, and needs about 10 % salt. Nitrate and nitrite, if used, must stay within the national additive standard. Drying rooms must be checked for fly larvae, cheese skippers and beetles. The process has no cooking step, and CDC says curing, drying or smoking alone does not consistently kill Trichinella worms in pork. This page describes a trade standard; it is not a tested home recipe.
Hazards the sources name: Bacillus cereus and Enterococcus faecalis (main spoilage bacteria, with an Enterobacteriaceae strain); Ham pests (cheese-skipper larvae, maggots and Dermestes beetles) in the drying rooms.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Wikipedia gives the Tang dynasty (618–907) as the earliest recorded mention of the processing technique. China's quality inspection authority approved Jinhua ham as a protected origin product in 2002 (announcement no. 84).
