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Fish and seafood from Japan
Hokkaido izushi is a quick narezushi of salted fish, firm rice, vegetables and rice koji. The desalted fish is dipped in vinegar, mixed with the rest, packed in a weighted barrel in late autumn and left in the cold for about 18 to 20 days while lactic bacteria sour it.
| Salted fish fillets | Hokke, salmon, hatahata, herring, saury and other Hokkaido fish[maff-izushi] |
| Rice, cooked firm and cooled | [maff-izushi] |
| Rice koji | [maff-izushi] |
| Cabbage, carrot, daikon and ginger | [maff-izushi] |
| Vinegar | For an hour's soak of the desalted fish[maff-izushi] |
| Starter | rice koji (enzymes) plus spontaneous lactic bacteria |
Total time across the recorded steps: 18 days – 20 days
What changes: Soaking in water draws salt out of the fish
Too little desalting leaves it too salty; too much makes it bland and shortens its keeping. Output: desalted fillets.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Hokkaido izushi is a quick narezushi of salted fish, firm rice, vegetables and rice koji. The desalted fish is dipped in vinegar, mixed with the rest, packed in a weighted barrel in late autumn and left in the cold for about 18 to 20 days while lactic bacteria sour it. Made in 4 steps over 18 days – 20 days. The longest step, weight and ripen in the cold, takes 18–20 days (MAFF Japan) and runs at 5 °C (Sasaki M 2005). Leuconostoc mesenteroides (subsp. cremoris), the dominant lactic bacterium in salmon izushi at every ripening temperature does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 18–20 daysReported[maff-izushi] | Weight and ripen in the cold |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 5 °CReported[sasaki2005a] | Weight and ripen in the cold |
| Acidity | pH 6.4 → 4.9Measured[sasaki2005a] | Weight and ripen in the cold |
Hokkaido izushi uses rice koji and vinegar and ripens in weeks, not the months or years of older narezushi such as funazushi. Vegetables go into the barrel with the fish.
Izushi is Japan's leading cause of foodborne botulism, which can kill, and MAFF names home-made izushi as a risk. Botulinum spores do not grow at pH 4.6 or lower, water activity 0.94 or lower, or 3.3 °C or colder. No source here shows that the method on this page reaches any of those limits. In the salmon study, ripened at about 5 °C, the pH fell to 4.9 without vinegar pre-pickling and stayed below 5.3 with it, and izushi is eaten unheated. So a vinegar dip, cold ripening or a sour taste does not show a batch is safe, and the toxin cannot be seen, smelled or tasted (CDC). Ordinary cooking does not kill the spores, which need 120 °C for 4 minutes or 100 °C for 360 minutes. Toxin already formed is destroyed only by heating the food right before eating, at 80 °C for 20 minutes or 100 °C for 1–2 minutes. MAFF advises washing every ingredient well, since the bacterium lives in soil, but washing is not one of the three controls it lists (killing the spores, stopping their growth, or destroying the toxin).
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum; izushi was the food in 14 of 29 foodborne botulism cases reported in Japan from June 1984 to February 2026.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
MAFF traces Hokkaido's koji izushi to the Muromachi period (1336–1573).
