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Sauces and condiments from Japan
Ishiru is the fish sauce of Japan's Noto Peninsula, made from squid livers or from sardines and other fish with salt. Packed in winter and fermented through the summer heat for at least a year, the mash separates into liquid and solids, and the liquid is drawn off. It has been a protected geographical indication since 2024.
| Squid, or sardine and other fish | [maff-gi146] |
| Salt1 part to 4 parts fish | The basic ratio is fish to salt 4:1[enomoto2015] |
| Starter | spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months – 2 years
What changes: Squid livers or sardines are packed with salt in winter
Packing in the cold of winter keeps the fresh mash from rotting. Output: salted fish mash.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Ishiru is the fish sauce of Japan's Noto Peninsula, made from squid livers or from sardines and other fish with salt. Packed in winter and fermented through the summer heat for at least a year, the mash separates into liquid and solids, and the liquid is drawn off. It has been a protected geographical indication since 2024. Made in 4 steps over 12 months – 2 years. The longest step, ripen under the crust for a year or more, takes 12 months – 2 years (MAFF 2024). Salt is 15–25 % (Nakazato M. et al. 2002). The fish and squid's own digestive enzymes, then lactic acid bacteria does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 12 months – 2 yearsReported[maff-gi146][enomoto2015] | Ripen under the crust for a year or more |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 15–25 %Measured[nakazato2002] | Draw off the liquid and remove the solids |
Shottsuru from Akita and ikanago shoyu from Kagawa are the other two classic Japanese fish sauces. Ishiru is the one often made from squid livers, and it ripens for at least a year under its GI rules.
Commercial shottsuru and ishiru measured 15–25 % salt. One survey found high volatile basic nitrogen in some ishiru made from sardine or mackerel, and high biogenic amines in ishiru made from those fish or from squid guts. Histamine reached 380 µg/g in one ishiru, just under the Codex limit of 40 mg per 100 g for fish sauce.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The GI register says ishiru was made by fishing families by at least the mid Edo period, as tradition has it. A 1913 government record of Japanese fishery products describes squid-gut sauce as made in Noto since old times. Small firms made about 30 tonnes a year in the late Showa era; about 20 firms made about 200 tonnes in fiscal 2016. The making technique is a registered intangible folk cultural property, and the name was registered as GI No. 146 on 27 March 2024.
