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Fish and seafood from Japan

Heshikoへしこ

Heshiko is Fukui's fish pickled first in salt and then in rice bran. Gutted mackerel are salted, then packed in rice bran in barrels and left for at least a few months to a year.

Fully documentedFish and seafood3.7 months – 13 months

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe salt amount is from a home-style batch made in a Japanese health ministry study; makers do not publish fixed amounts.
Mackerel, gutted and washedSardine, herring or squid are also used. Do not use pufferfish at home; see the safety note[maff-heshiko][mhlw-safe-fugu]
Salt, for the first saltingequal to the fish weightLaboratory home-style batch; a second trial used brine at 13 % salt[mhlw2022]
Rice branAutumn and winter batches use bran from the new rice crop[maff-heshiko]

Total time across the recorded steps: 3.7 months – 13 months

Start
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What changes: The mackerel are gutted and washed

Step 1 of 4
Gut and wash the fish
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria

Output: gutted, washed mackerel.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Heshiko is Fukui's fish pickled first in salt and then in rice bran. Gutted mackerel are salted, then packed in rice bran in barrels and left for at least a few months to a year. Made in 4 steps over 3.7 months – 13 months. The longest step, pack in rice bran, takes 3–12 months (MAFF Japan) and runs at 25 °C (Igimi S. et al 2022). Salt is 13 % (Igimi S. et al 2022). Salt-tolerant lactic acid bacteria, rising to 10^7–10^8 per g within 10 days at 25 °C in the bran does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step3–12 monthsReported[maff-heshiko][mlit-obama]Pack in rice bran
Temperature25 °CReported[mhlw2022]Pack in rice bran
Salt13 %Reported[mhlw2022]Salt the fish
AciditypH 6.2 → 5.1Measured[mhlw2022]Pack in rice bran

What makes this one different

Heshiko is pickled first in salt and then in rice bran, and is left for at least a few months to a year. In Obama some of it is used again to make heshiko narezushi, which is fermented with rice and koji.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Heshiko narezushi (Obama)In Obama, heshiko with its skin peeled and its salt soaked out is packed with rice and koji, weighted and fermented about 2 weeks; a dish served around the New Year.
  • Mackerel heshiko (Reinan)The well-known mackerel heshiko of southern Fukui.
  • Konkazuke (Reihoku)Sardine bran pickle of northern Fukui.

Safety

Fish bran pickles can carry histamine. A Japanese health ministry survey of commercial fish products found histamine above 200 ppm, the safety indicator for fish sauce, in 5 of 9 bran-processed products. A follow-up purchase of 12 bran-pickled fish products found 7 above 400 µg/g and 4 with almost none. In the laboratory home-style batches histamine stayed low, with a top value of 10.09 µg/g over 20 weeks, and the report could not reproduce the high levels. MAFF lists pufferfish among the fish used, but never use it at home. Puffer can carry tetrodotoxin, a deadly poison. Japan's health ministry says rubbing with salt, soaking in water or heating does not remove it, and that untrained people must never prepare puffer.

Hazards the sources name: Histamine-forming bacteria in fish bran pickles; all 17 strains isolated from the bran of a high-histamine and a low-histamine pickle made histamine in culture, most only weakly, and Tetragenococcus halophilus made the most (identified isolates also included Bacillus, Paenibacillus and Halomonas).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Heshiko is thought to come from Wakasa as winter protein and existed by the mid-Edo period. Salted Wakasa mackerel went to Kyoto along the road now called the Mackerel Highway. "Heshiko of Mihama" became a regional collective trademark in 2020.

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
  1. [maff-heshiko] MAFF Japan, Heshiko (Fukui Prefecture), Traditional Foods in Japangov
  2. [mhlw2022] Igimi S. et al., Behaviour and control of histamine-forming bacteria in processed fish products, MHLW Health and Labour Sciences Research Grant sub-report, fiscal 2022 (Reiwa 4), including a study of heshikogov
  3. [mlit-obama] MLIT Japan (Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism), Fermented foods (発酵食品), Obama City explanatory text, Multilingual Explanatory Text Database (document 001554273)gov
  4. [mhlw-safe-fugu] Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare of Japan, 安全なフグを提供しましょう (Serving safe fugu)gov