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Cheese from Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and the Indian Himalaya

Hard chhurpiछुर्पी

Buttermilk or skimmed milk left from butter-making is heated and soured until the casein curdles. The curd is pressed into a block, cut into strips, then smoked over the fire and dried for weeks until it is rock hard. It is chewed slowly, like gum.

Fully documentedCheese37 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceAn improved lab method from Nepal (Shrestha 2015). About 4 kg of chhurpi comes from 100 L of milk. The sources give no fixed traditional amounts.
Buttermilk (sweet-cream buttermilk in the study), or skimmed milk100 partsAll-buttermilk scored as well as all-skim-milk chhurpi[shrestha2015]
Warmed tartaric acid2 %The study's coagulant[shrestha2015]
Starterthe milk is soured by back-slopping before churning (dahi); the curd is set by acid and heat

Total time across the recorded steps: 37 days

Start
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shapes, not to countLactic acid bacteria

What changes: Soured milk is churned and the butter is lifted off the buttermilk

Step 1 of 7
Sour the milk and churn out the butter
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Lactobacillus helveticus
Lactococcus lactis
Lactobacilli

Output: crude butter (gheu or mar) and buttermilk.

Flavour
sour
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

lactic bacteria sour the milk (dahi), which is churned for butter

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Buttermilk or skimmed milk left from butter-making is heated and soured until the casein curdles. The curd is pressed into a block, cut into strips, then smoked over the fire and dried for weeks until it is rock hard. It is chewed slowly, like gum. Made in 7 steps over 37 days. The longest step, dry in the air and sun, takes 30 days (Shrestha S.R 2015). Lactobacillus helveticus and Lactococcus lactis do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step30 daysReported[shrestha2015]Dry in the air and sun
Temperature70 °CReported[shrestha2015]Heat and curdle the buttermilk
AciditypH 5.7–6.3Measured[shangpliang2018]Keep as churkam

What makes this one different

Hard chhurpi is soft chhurpi taken further. The pressed curd is cut, smoked and dried until it is rock hard, while soft chhurpi is eaten moist in curries and soups. Unlike Mongolian aaruul, it is made from buttermilk left after butter-making and is dried over a fire.

pH
Churkam: pH 5.71–5.74 for Arunachal cow (11 samples), 5.82–5.87 for Arunachal yak (3 samples), 6.34 for one North Sikkim sample

Related ferments

Variants

  • Soft chhurpiThe curd is not smoked and dried hard; it is eaten moist in curries and soups, with rice, or as a momo filling. It is the most common form in Bhutan.

Safety

Pressed curd holds at least about 55 % moisture, so it must be dried promptly to stop mould and bacteria from spoiling it. Drying improves the keeping quality; smoking adds flavour. The dry product takes up moisture easily, and Nepalese producers store hard chhurpi at 8–10 °C. A study of Nepalese exporters says it is common for chhurpi to grow mould on long transport.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Panta and colleagues write that chhurpi making goes back a thousand years in the remote Himalaya. Trade in Nepalese chhurpi as a dog chew began after 2003; exporters reported shipping 15.65 tonnes in 2019/20, up from 8.5 tonnes the year before.

  1. [shrestha2015] Shrestha S.R., Pradhananga M., Das S.K.L. 2015, Utilization of milk by-product (buttermilk) in the preparation of chhurpi and its quality evaluation, Sunsari Technical College Journal 2(1):1–6paper
  2. [shangpliang2018] Shangpliang H.N.J., Rai R., Keisam S., Jeyaram K., Tamang J.P. 2018, Bacterial community in naturally fermented milk products of Arunachal Pradesh and Sikkim of India analysed by high-throughput amplicon sequencing, Scientific Reports 8:1532paper
  3. [fao-tmp] FAO 1990, The technology of traditional milk products in developing countries, FAO Animal Production and Health Paper 85, sections 7.5.5 and 7.6.1–7.6.7 (Himalayan region, chhurpi)book
  4. [panta2023] Panta R., Paswan V.K., Kanetkar P., Bunkar D.S., Rose H., Bakshi S. 2023, Exploring trade prospects of Chhurpi and the present status of Chhurpi producers and exporters of Nepal, Journal of Ethnic Foods 10:1paper