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Fermented milk from Altai Republic

Chegen (cheghen)чеген

Chegen is the everyday soured milk of the Altai people. Boiled, skimmed cow milk, still warm but no hotter than 40 °C, is seeded with about 100 g of the previous day's chegen per litre and kept 8–10 hours somewhere warm in a wooden tub cleaned with smoke, then moved somewhere cool to firm up. It is also the base for aarchy curd, kurut and the milk spirit araka.

Fully documentedFermented milk11 h – 14 h

Recipe

Amounts from a source100 g of old chegen per 1 L of milk, the ratio given by Tadysheva's informants and by Altapress.
Cow milk, boiled, skimmed and still warm1 L[tadysheva2021][altapress2023]
Chegen from the previous day (starter)About 100 gStirred well in a separate bowl first; the older the starter, the thicker the chegen[tadysheva2021][altapress2023]
Starterbackslop: chegen from the previous day

Total time across the recorded steps: 11 h – 14 h

Start
Drag the bar or press Play

What changes: The wooden tub is scalded and filled with larch smoke to clean it

Step 1 of 5
Clean the wooden tub with smoke
Time
2–2.5 h
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Chegen is the everyday soured milk of the Altai people. Boiled, skimmed cow milk, still warm but no hotter than 40 °C, is seeded with about 100 g of the previous day's chegen per litre and kept 8–10 hours somewhere warm in a wooden tub cleaned with smoke, then moved somewhere cool to firm up. It is also the base for aarchy curd, kurut and the milk spirit araka. Made in 5 steps over 11 h – 14 h. The longest step, ferment warm, then cool to firm, takes 8–10 h (Tadysheva N.O. 2021). Thermophilic and mesophilic lactic acid bacteria and yeasts does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step8–10 hReported[tadysheva2021][altapress2023]Ferment warm, then cool to firm
Temperatureup to 40 °CReported[tadysheva2021]Stir in the old chegen

What makes this one different

Chegen is made from boiled, skimmed cow milk seeded with the previous day's chegen, and it is kept in a smoked wooden tub.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Raw-milk chegenMilk only cooled, not boiled; cream not removed.
  • Obrat chegenMade from separator skim milk.

Safety

The milk is boiled before it is seeded and the drink is moved somewhere cool after 8–10 hours. Some chegen is made from raw milk with no boiling. The CDC warns that raw-milk foods can carry Campylobacter, E. coli, Listeria, Brucella and Salmonella, so the boiling step should not be skipped.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Chegen was everyday food in herding families in the 1970s–80s; since the 1990s fewer households make it. People ask each other for starter, bringing milk in exchange, and it is made at the new moon. A splash is offered to the spirit of a mountain pass.

  1. [tadysheva2021] Tadysheva N.O. 2021, 'Ak ash', white food in the traditional culture of the Altaians, Bulletin of History (KazNU) 101(2), doi:10.26577/JH.2021.v101.i2.02 (field material)paper
  2. [altapress2023] Altapress 2023, Предки кефира и водки. Пять древних напитков, которые готовили на Алтае (news feature with recipes)web
  3. [znanierussia] Znanie.Wiki, Чеген (wiki article citing Sanashkina 1995 and a 2014 Altaian ethnography volume)wiki
  4. [cdc-raw-milk] US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Raw Milk (food safety page)gov